Installation & Instruction Manual
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Chapter 1
The Frigomatic 35F Series
Your Frigomatic system consists of the following components:
(1) A compressor /condensing unit that is either air cooled:
Paris, Roma, Madrid, Capri, AV35F or AH35F
Or water cooled:
W35F (with pump) or K35F ( with keel cooler)
(2) An Electronic Control Module connected & installed on the compressor.
(3) A thermostat for refrigerator, freezer, or holding plate.
(4) An aluminum evaporator or stainless steel holding plate.
(5) A Master Control, for AV35F & AH35F only.
(6) Water pump, for W35F only.
(7) A keel cooler, for K35F only.
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Chapter 2
AV35F & AH35F
2:1 Mounting position
These units should be mounted in a cabinet or area where they will not be susceptible to physical or water damage. There should be adequate ventilation of the compartment to allow the warm air to be expelled, but not so that it can be immediately drawn back in. The efficiency of the system depends mainly on the temperature of the air entering the condenser. Re-circulating the heated air back into the condenser in a sealed or poorly ventilated cabinet will result in poor system performance, as will drawing in air from a heated space, i.e. engine room.
2:2 Installation
These units are designed to be mounted against the bulkhead through which a 4 3/4" x 5 2" (120 x 140mm) ventilation hole has been cut.
Use the supplied template to mark the ventilation hole. Mount the unit by securing with screws either to the bulkhead or through the base, making sure that the condenser lines up with the ventilation hole. Best results are achieved with the AH35F if the condenser frame is sealed against the bulkhead with foam rubber tape or equivalent. The ventilation hole should be covered with a suitable grill to protect the condenser fins from damage, & for aesthetic appeal. The grill must be of sufficient size & construction so as not to impede air flow.
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Chapter 3
Paris, Roma, Madrid
These units are designed to be mounted in areas where they will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, & having good ventilation, preferably expelling the heated air to another location by attaching a flexible, 4" diameter duct of not more than 3' in length to the duct ring on the unit. There should be adequate ventilation of the compartment to allow cool air to enter the condenser, but not so that the heated, expelled air can be immediately drawn back in. The efficiency of the system depends mainly on the temperature of the air entering the condenser. Re-circulating the heated air back into the condenser in a sealed or poorly ventilated cabinet will result in poor system performance, as will drawing in air from a heated space, i.e. engine room.
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Chapter 4
Capri
The same considerations in chapter 3 apply, except that the duct ring accepts a 5" duct.
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Chapter 5
W35F - Water cooled with pump
This unit should be mounted in an area where it will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. Consideration should be given to access of hose & refrigerant line connections.
5:1 Raw water pump
The supplied pump is self-priming & requires a good intake strainer of 120 Mesh. Other pumps of similar performance may be used. After installation, check for leaks & a water flow of at least 1 gal/min. The pump power must be supplied through a 12v relay whose coil is connected to the fan terminals. The fan terminals on the Module are limited to a current draw of 0.7 amps, & will deliver 12v even if the system is connected to a 24v supply.
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Chapter 6
K35F - Water cooled with keel cooler
The compressor unit should be mounted in an area where it will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. Consideration must be given to the fact that the compressor must be mounted within 5' of the keel cooler. This dimension cannot be extended.
6:1 Keel cooler
This must be mounted through the hull by drilling a 1 9/16" (40mm) hole, (a 1 1/2" hole may be used, carefully enlarging it if necessary). Make a dry run(s) without the rubber o-ring & sealant installed, making sure that the keel cooler fits up flush with the hull, chamfering the hole if necessary. The rubber o-ring must then be installed & properly seated, & adequate sealant of the correct type must be used. If you are installing the stud type of keel cooler (as opposed to the thread type which has a large nut as the method of tightening), care should be taken not to over-tighten the nuts on the studs & bending the compression bar. If you are installing the thread type you will need someone to hold the keel cooler while you tighten the nut. The mounting location should be carefully chosen, avoiding areas where lifting slings may be applied, or where other damage may occur. Special constraints & working practices apply when installing the keel cooler on a vessel with a cored, metal, or carbon fiber hull, & for these applications we suggest you consult a marine professional. Also, consideration should be given to the fact that the keel cooler must be below the water-line, and the compressor unit must be mounted within 5' of the keel cooler location. On power boats it may be possible to mount the keel cooler in the section of the transom that is below the waterline.
6:2 Grounding
Provision is provided for a grounding/bonding wire to be attached. It is very important that this is connected to a suitable fitting that is electrically connected to the battery negative, &, if the vessel has a bonding system, to a sacrificial zinc. The keel cooler must not be painted, & should be inspected periodically for corrosion.
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Chapter 7
Electronic Control Module for Frigomatic series.
The Electronic Control Module is an integral part of the Danfoss BD35F compressor system. It transforms direct current power from the vessels batteries into alternating current to run the compressor. Never attempt to run the compressor directly from the batteries or other power source.
7:1 Voltage
A supply voltage of either 12 or 24 volts dc is required, & the Module will run from either without any special settings or adjustments, switching to 24v mode if the voltage is above 17v.
7:2 Multi-speed compressor
Depending on the system, up to four user-selectable compressor speeds are available for maximum system performance at the lowest current draw.
7:3 Safeguards
Protection is provided for the following:
(1) Low voltage. To prevent the batteries from being totally discharged, the compressor will be stopped if the voltage at the terminals on the Module falls below 10.6 volts ( 23.4), & will not re-start until the voltage rises above 11.7 (24.0) volts.
(2) High voltage. If the voltage exceeds 17v, the Module stops the compressor & switches into 24v mode, but will not attempt to start the compressor until the voltage reaches 24v.
(3) Compressor non-start. If the compressor does not start, the Module will stop the starting process, & attempt a re-start every 60 seconds.
(4) Compressor speed too low. If the compressor speed falls below 1900 RPM the Module will stop the compressor.
(5) Fan (pump) protection. If the current draw across the fan terminals exceeds 0.7 amps 12v dc, the compressor will be stopped & a re-start attempted every 60 seconds.
(6) Module overheat. If the heat sink on the module exceeds a preset temperature, the compressor will be stopped & will be re-started when normal operating temperatures are resumed.
7:4 Alarm Indicator
A LED may be installed across the + & D terminals of the Module to indicate a failure condition as follows:
LCD will Blink up to 5 times every 5 seconds.
I Blink; Supply voltage low, below 10.4v (22.8)
2 Blinks; Excessive load on fan terminals, above 0.7 amps
3 Blinks; Compressor non-start
4 Blinks; Compressor speed below 1900 RPM
5 Blinks; Module heat-sink temp too high. Re-sets on cool-down.
Note 1
After power is applied to the Module there may be a delay of up to 60 seconds before the compressor starts.
Note 2
The Electronic Module, although designed for harsh & marine applications, can be damaged from either direct or incidental contact with water, & by water flowing down wires attached to the terminals. When attaching wires to the terminals on the Module, make sure that all wires approach from below the terminal, & endeavor to mount the Compressor & Module combination in a location that is clear of existing & potential water leaks.
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Chapter 8
Aluminum H, F, & B Type Evaporators
8:1 Location
All types of evaporator need to be located as high as possible in the ice-box to maintain the correct temperatures, with consideration being given to access to the interior freezing section in the H & B types. The F series of flat evaporators may be carefully bent on a 1" radius to follow the shape of the ice box. A section of pvc piping with an outside diameter of 2" may be used for this purpose. This must be done slowly & with great care to avoid excessive kinking of the channels in the evaporator. There are sections that must not be bent, & these are indicated on the specification sheet. The H & B types may be mounted in any position. The F type must be mounted with the indicator arrows pointing upwards.
8:2 Installation
All evaporators have approx. 9' of copper tubing attached, with dust-plugs in the end fittings that must remain installed until the connections are ready to be made. A 1 1/2" hole needs be drilled in the wall of the ice-box, as high as possible, & through successive bulkheads as required. Carefully unroll the tubing & feed it through the holes to the area where the compressor/condenser is located. Some evaporators have sections of aluminum tubing close to the body of the evaporator that must be handled very carefully & not bent. Warnings to that effect are attached to the evaporators in question.
Any bends that need to be fashioned in the tubing must be made carefully & of as large a radius as possible to avoid kinking . The section of insulation that is free to slide on the tubing should be positioned so that it covers the tubing starting at the point where it exits the ice-box. Once the evaporator is installed, this exit hole must be sealed with expanding foam, refrigeration putty, or other suitable material. Any excess tubing may be carefully rolled up & fastened out of the way in a horizontal orientation. If the tubing is too short to reach the compressor/condensing unit, pre-charged extensions are available in 3, 6, & 10 foot lengths.
8:3 Thermostat sensing tube
Check to see how you need to attach the thermostat sensing tube before mounting the evaporator. Instructions are included with the evaporator showing how the last 3" or so of the sensing tube must be bent into a U shape, the clamping screw loosened, and the tube inserted under the plastic plate so that it lays in the special groove in the plate. Finish by tightening the clamping screw. If necessary, the mounting plate can be removed & installed on the other side of the evaporator.
8:4 Mounting
H & B types can be mounted in any position. To mount the H type horizontally, drill four mounting holes in the roof of the ice-box & start 2 screws in the rear holes. Slide the mounting slots in the evaporator over the screws & insert & tighten the front screws. Finish by tightening the rear screws. The B type can be mounted by using the row of holes along the top rear face of the evaporator, & the F type has numerous mounting holes along the top & bottom edges. Do not drill or attempt to drill holes in any evaporator for any purpose. Always use the mounting spacers supplied to protect the tubing & to provide adequate air circulation. Mounting the evaporator directly against the icebox wall with no spacers will diminish the heat removing surface area and lower it's efficiency.
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Chapter 9
Thermostat for H, B, & F evaporators
9:1 Refrigerator & Freezer thermostats
There are two different thermostats for different applications. The refrigerator version is housed in a white housing, & is designed to be used where the evaporator is mounted in an ice-box that is intended to be kept at refrigerator temperatures. If the evaporator is of the H or B type & is correctly sized, the interior portion of these evaporators will be kept at freezer temperatures. The freezer version is mounted in a blue housing, & must be used where the evaporator is mounted in a space that is to be used as a freezer. If an existing ice-box is divided with a barrier, a Spillover fan/thermostat kit, Part Number E26200, can be used to keep the refrigerator section at the desired temperature.
9:2 Mounting
The thermostat can be mounted either inside the ice-box, or in an alternative location that is within the length of the capillary sensing tube. This capillary tube controls the thermostat by the pressure of the gas it contains, & must not be kinked, broken or cut. Any excess tubing may be carefully coiled up & secured out of the way to avoid damage. When securing the sensing tube, make sure that it only makes contact with the evaporator at the point where it is attached under the mounting plate. If necessary, the tube can be protected with small-bore plastic tubing, either by sliding it on prior to attaching the tube to the evaporator, or by slitting it along its length & feeding it over the sensing tube. Run the cable alongside the copper lines to the compressor/condensing unit. Care must be taken to ensure that the sensing tube does not come into contact with any electrical component either inside or outside the ice-box. There is an insulating cover over the most exposed terminal inside the plastic thermostat housing, & this must be checked before mounting to make sure that the entire terminal is covered & no metal parts are exposed. If the sensing tube needs to be bent within the confines of the plastic thermostat housing, it must be done with great care, heeding the warnings above.
9:3 Operation
The thermostat knob is marked from 1 to 7. The coldest setting is 7, & from this position the knob can be rotated counter-clockwise to setting 1, which is the warmest. If the knob is rotated further counter-clockwise, beyond setting 1, some initial resistance is felt & then the thermostat will click into the Off position. On initial system start-up, it is recommended that you set the thermostat to number 4 & let the system run through a few cycles while monitoring box temperature before any adjustments are made.
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Chapter 10
Stainless Steel Holding Plate Evaporator
10:1 Location
The holding plate must be mounted vertically, as high as possible in the ice-box.
10:2 Installation
The 9' copper tubing set is supplied separate from the holding plate, & has dust plugs installed in the fittings at each end that must remain in place until the fittings are ready to joined together. A 1 1/2" hole needs to be drilled through the wall of the ice-box, as high as possible, & through successive bulkheads if necessary. Carefully unroll the tubing & feed it through the holes to where the compressor/condenser is located. It does not matter which end goes where. Any bends that need to be fashioned in the tubing should be made with great care, and with as large a radius as possible to avoid kinking.
The section of insulation that is free to slide on the tubing should be positioned so that it covers the tubing starting at the point where it exits from the ice-box. Once the holding plate is installed, this exit hole must be sealed with expanding foam, refrigeration putty, or other suitable material. Any excess tubing may be carefully rolled up & fastened out of the way in a horizontal orientation. If the tubing is too short to reach the compressor/condensing unit, pre-charged extensions are available in 3', 6', & 10' lengths.
10:3 Mounting
Use the template & mounting bracket provided with the plate.
10:4 Thermostat
The thermostat can be mounted either inside the ice-box or in an alternative location that is within the scope of the sensing tube. This capillary tube has a bulb on the end, & this must be firmly attached to the holding plate by the clamp provided on any side except for the top. The sensing tube controls the thermostat by the pressure of the gas it contains, & must not be kinked, broken or cut. Any excess tubing may be carefully coiled up out of the way & secured to avoid damage.
10:5 Operation
The thermostat has an adjustment dial calibrated in degrees Celsius. This must be set at -10.
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Chapter 11
Quick Connect Refrigerant Fittings
Each component of the Frigomatic system is fitted with one male & one female Quick Connect fitting that connects with a corresponding fitting on other components of the system. K35F keel cooler systems comprise of 3 components, & so special attention must be given to the installation diagram supplied with the individual parts. All other air & water cooled systems have only 2 components, & therefore cannot be connected wrongly. The individual items are charged with the correct amount of refrigerant at the factory, & when the Quick Connect fittings are joined together, they allow the refrigerant to flow through the system without leaking out to the atmosphere. If needed, they can be undone to enable a faulty component to be removed & replaced without leaking refrigerant.
NOTE
Never run the compressor unless all components of the system are connected together.
11:1 Connecting the Quick Connect fittings
Leave the brass dust plugs installed until you are ready to connect the system together. After you have removed the plugs, keep them in a safe place in case you need to remove or replace a component later. Push the male & female fittings together & then carefully rotate the collar on the female fitting until it starts on the thread on the male end, making sure that the fitting is not cross-threaded & the male end does not rotate. Continue making up the collar of the female end, either by hand or with a 15/16" wrench, while preventing the male end from rotating by restraining it with a 13/16" wrench. It is most important not to let the male end rotate at all during this whole process. Tighten the collar until it completely covers the threads on the male fitting. It is not necessary to use excessive force as the seal that stops the refrigerant from escaping is made with an o-ring & does not depend on the fitting being wrenched down hard. If there is a continuos hiss after the connection has been completed, disconnect the fitting & check that the o-ring has not been damaged. If it has, carefully replace it with the spare(s) provided & re-make the fitting.
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Chapter 12
Electrical
12:1 Power supply
The power supply to the Electronic Control Module must given particular attention to prevent nuisance problems & compressor non-operation, shutdown, or failure. All electrical connections should be either soldered or made with good quality crimpers & crimp connectors of the correct size & type. All switches, breakers & connections must be in good condition & be designed & constructed for marine use. It is suggested that during the initial start-up the supply voltage be monitored at the terminals on the Module before, during, & after the compressor starts, to ensure that the voltage stays steady & does not fall appreciably. This test should be conducted with as many other DC loads turned on as is practical.
12:2 Wire size
Consult ABYC tables for 3% volt drop. Never use less than 10 gauge wire.
12:3 Overload protection
Use either a breaker or fast-blow fuse with 15 amp rating for a 12v supply, or 7.5 amp for 24v.
12:4 Connections, power
Connect the power supply to the Module to the top two terminals, observing the correct polarity. Reversing the polarity at the terminals will prevent the compressor from running but will not harm the system.
12:5 Connections, thermostat
Connect the two slip-on connectors from the thermostat to the corresponding terminals on the Module, color & polarity are not important. One connector must go on the C terminal, & the other to the terminal specified for the system & size of evaporator, as outlined below.
Paris, Roma, Madrid
These systems can only be run at 2000 RPM , & the thermostat must be connected to terminals C & T on the Module.
Capri
This system may be run at either 2000 or 2500 RPM dependent on evaporator size, see chart below. The thermostat must be connected with one wire to terminal C, & the other to either 2000" or 2500" on the multi-speed board.
AV & AH
These air cooled models are equipped with the "Master" control that varies the fan speed between high & low according to the temperature of the air entering the condenser. This minimizes fan noise at night & in cool weather. The thermostat must be connected with one wire to terminal C, & the other to either 2000", 2500", 3000", or 3500", dependent on evaporator size, see chart below.
W35F (water cooled - pump), & K35F (keel cooler)
The thermostat must be connected to the Module with one wire to terminal C, & the other to either 2000", 2500", 3000", or 3500", dependent on evaporator size, see chart below.
Evaporator type Compressor speed, refrigerator Compressor speed, freezer
80F 2000 -------------
130H / 130F 2500 3500
160H / 160F 2500 3500
200H / 200B / 200F/ 250B 3000 3500
340B 3500 3500
12:6 Connections, Fan
The wires from the fan must be connected to the terminals marked F (Black), & C (Red). If the wires are reversed the fan will not run.
12:7 Connections, Pump
The W35F model uses a 12v pump that must be connected through a relay (PN E251002) that is activated from the fan terminals on the Module. If a 24v power supply is used with a 12v pump, a voltage divider (PN E252400) will have to be installed between the relay & the pump. It is important to remember that the output voltage at the fan terminals will be 12v even if the supply to the Module is 24v, & so a relay with a 12v coil must always be used.
This system has a sensor on the water cooled heat exchanger that is connected in series with the thermostat & will stop the system if the cooling water flow is insufficient. Full instructions are included with the system.
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Chapter 13
Troubleshooting Guide
NOTES: (1) The voltage must be checked at the terminals on the Module, with the supply wires attached.
(2) Start-up may occur up to one minute after power is supplied & thermostat is on.
(3) Run all applicable tests before assuming Module or Compressor to be faulty.
13:1 Compressor not running, no start attempt.
Probable cause Action
1 Supply voltage too low Check voltage with a digital multi-meter at the terminals on the Module. This must be 11.7v or more for a 12v supply & 24v or more for a 24v supply. Inspect power supply, ground connections & components for integrity. Check wire sizing. Charge batteries if necessary.
2 Supply voltage too high If a 12v supply is faulty & delivers over 17v, the compressor will not run. If it is over 24v, it will assume that it is a 24v supply & act accordingly.
3 Polarity incorrect Check that the polarity is correct at the Module.
4 Faulty thermostat Remove the thermostat wires & jumper the terminals that they were on together temporarily. If the system then runs, make the connection permanent & control the system manually from the breaker on your supply panel. Replace thermostat as soon as possible.
5 Thermostat wired incorrectly, or faulty connections. Refer to the installation instructions & confirm that connections are as they should be. Ensure that the thermostat connectors are pushed firmly on to the Module terminals.
6 Multi-speed board incorrectly installed (if fitted) Check to make sure that the 2 connectors at the rear of the multi-speed board are attached to the C & T terminals of the Module.
7 Multi-speed board faulty (if fitted) Remove board & jumper terminals C & T on the Module. Note; If the thermostat wires are connected directly to C & T on the Module, the compressor will run at its slowest speed.
8 Compressor plug not connected Disconnect the Module by removing the retaining screw & then ensure that the 3-pin plug is seated firmly on the pins of the compressor.
9 Faulty compressor Remove the Module as above, & unplug from the compressor. Check that ohm readings are the same across all terminals of the compressor.
10 Heat sink overheated Allow components to cool down before attempting re-start.
11 Compressor too cold If compressor is below freezing temperature, allow to warm up before attempting re-start.
13:2 Compressor attempts to start, or starts then stops soon after.
1 Faulty or inadequate power supply Monitor the supply voltage at the terminals on the Module during start attempts to ensure that it does not fall below threshold levels. If it does, check power supply, ground connections & components for integrity. Check for correct wire sizing. Charge batteries if necessary.
2 Faulty fan or pump relay or unauthorized component installed Remove connectors from F & + terminals on Module & attempt re-start. Maximum current draw on these terminals is limited to 0.7 amps 12v
3 Quick Connect fittings not made Check that all refrigerant fittings are connected together properly.
13:3 System runs, box temperature too high.
1 Thermostat setting Rotate thermostat knob clockwise to a higher number.
2 Speed setting Check that thermostat leads are connected to the speed setting recommended for the evaporator that is installed, & for its use i.e. refer or freezer.
3 Thermostat type If you are planning to convert your ice box into a freezer, or as a spillover system, a freezer thermostat (blue housing) must be used.
4 Evaporator type & size If the evaporator has an even coating of frost, the thermostat is set on 7, & the system is cycling, the evaporator may be too small. Either replace the evaporator with a larger model, add insulation to the bottom of the box to reduce volume, or re-locate the evaporator lower in the box. The latter may cause the temperature at the top of the box to be above acceptable levels.
5 Excessive frost build-up If an excessive layer of frost is allowed to build up on the evaporator it will act as an insulator & adversely affect box temperatures. Defrost system by interrupting power supply at the breaker panel or by turning thermostat to the off position. Restore power or reset thermostat when evaporator is free of frost. Never use any implement in an attempt to loosen the frost on the aluminum evaporator.
6 Incorrect refrigerant charge If, after the compressor has been running for an appreciable length of time, the evaporator surface does not have an even coating of frost, or it is only cold & sweating to the touch, the system may be low on refrigerant or over-charged. Consult a marine refrigeration specialist.
7 Drain left unplugged If your ice-box is equipped with a drain in the bottom of the box, it is suggested that you block it off to prevent heat loss. The drain should only be used if you revert to melting ice, or after a major clean-up.
8 Tubing hole left unplugged The hole that had been drilled to allow the copper tubes on the evaporator to pass through during installation must be sealed.
13:4 System runs, box temperature too low.
1 Thermostat setting Rotate thermostat knob to a lower number.
2 Thermostat type Check that you are using a refrigerator thermostat (white housing) for a refrigerator application.
3 Faulty thermostat If system is running continuously & box temperatures are too low with thermostat set on the lowest number, first check for correct thermostat connections at the Module, then remove one connection. If compressor stops, turn off breaker, replace connection & then control system manually from the breaker until the thermostat can be replaced.
4 Holding plate over-sized If you are using a holding plate evaporator that is over-sized for the application, it will absorb more heat than that which enters the box through the insulation, & so lowers the temperature. Experiment by covering some of the plate surface with insulating material until you achieve correct box temperatures. This method will also increase hold-over times.
5 Poor spillover system construction If you are running the evaporator as a freezer, & cooling an adjoining refrigerator compartment with some spillover air, there must be an adequate thermal barrier between the two, & it must be properly sealed to prevent unwanted air-flow. Temperatures in the refrigerator side should be controlled either with trial-&-error convection holes, or a thermostatically controlled fan, (Spillover Fan/Thermostat Kit, PN E26200). Two apertures are necessary, one high & one low for adequate air circulation.
13:5 Excessive frost build-up
Note: This is the result of moist air being allowed to enter the box. Problems are compounded when cold air leaks from the lower area of the box & is replaced by warm, humid air entering elsewhere.
1 Drains & holes not plugged Make sure all drains & holes in the floor & walls of the box are sealed.
2 Circulating fan If a small fan is used to circulate air in the box, make sure that the cold air is not being blown towards & out of a door/lid seal. This could force cold air out of the box & set up a circulation pattern if the seals are leaking
2 Poor or damaged door/lid seals Check seals & replace if necessary. A good seal will grip a $1 bill when inserted in the seal & the door/lid is then closed. A front opening door / top opening lid combination with poor seals is likely to result in excessive frost build-up on the evaporator, & extended run times.